Fairy Rings and Fairy Tales

Fungi love water and here lately in North Carolina we've had plenty of water via record rainfall to help ensure they don't go extinct any time soon. The majority of fungi in this world are beneficial, because without these fungi we wouldn't have some of the finer things in life such as beer or Agaricus bisporus that adorns salads and pizzas as a topping. However, there are plenty of them that cause problems for us in the form of plant diseases.

You name a disease of turfgrass and we have likely observed it in the field or as a sample submitted to the NC State Turf Diagnostics Lab over the past 3-4 months. One that we rarely receive as a sample due to it's ease of identification is from a fairy ring. Most people associate fairy rings with mushrooms. To quote NC State alum Dr. Lee Miller, "not all fairy rings produce mushrooms and not all mushrooms produce fairy rings." This is important to remember, because if you observe mushrooms in your lawn, putting green, or croquet court, it doesn't necessarily mean you have a fairy ring problem.

A fairy ring in Raleigh, NC.

Fairy rings have likely peaked the interest of mankind since day one. This fascination has led to some crazy theories over the years such as fairies danced there the night before or that it was created by the fiery tail of a flying dragon. Whatever you do, don't step into the ring, collect the dew from the grass blades, or attempt to destroy it because bad luck is guaranteed to follow!

"Plucked from the Fairy Circle" - A man saves his friend from the grip of a fairy ring.

From British Goblins: Welsh Folklore, Fairy Mythology,Legends and Traditions (1880)

Fairy rings tend to form in circles, arcs, crescents, or broken rings. During their radial journey outward, fairy ring fungi decompose organic matter, which in turn releases nitrogen and other nutrients back into the soil for plants to take up. This is why the ring will often be darker green than the surrounding turf. The good news is that fairy ring fungi don't actually infect the turfgrass plant like brown patch, dollar spot, etc. The bad news is that they leave behind a coating on the soil particles that renders the soil hydrophobic (repels water) and may ultimately kill the turf. This is important to know when it comes to controlling the symptoms caused by fairy rings. For example, if you are treating fairy rings curatively in a home lawn situation, your best bet may be as simple as punching holes through the dead rings with something as fancy as an aerification machine or as simple as a pitchfork. Either way, you are instantly helping water penetrate the affected zone. If you are only observing green rings, then you may be able to mask them with a light fertilizer application. In severe cases or in high profile areas, you will likely want to use wetting agents and/or fungicides in addition to the aforementioned tips. 

For more information about fairy rings, including control recommendations, click here.

15 Minutes of Fame for Leaf Spot

After looking back through prior alerts and posts, I discovered that leaf spot diseases have never made the cut, until now.  Recent weather patterns of cloudy and rainy weather across much of North Carolina have been perfect for foliar diseases such as Bipolaris leaf spot and gray leaf spot.

Bipolaris Leaf Spot on Bermudagrass

We have received several samples of bermudagrass in the past week that were devastated by the fungus Bipolaris cynodontis. Bipolaris leaf spot is most severe on turf that is growing slowly due to adverse weather conditions or improper management practices.  Shaded areas with little or no air movement result in weak turf and extended periods of leaf wetness that favor disease development. Deficient or excessive nitrogen, excessive thatch, extended periods of leaf wetness, drought stress, and low mowing heights are factors that encourage the development of leaf spot diseases.  These fungi may spread to the crowns and roots and cause melting out, which is most severe during periods of hot weather.  For more information about leaf spot, including control recommendations, click here.

Gray Leaf Spot on St. Augustinegrass

We have also received several samples of gray leaf spot on St. Augustinegrass here at the NC State TDL. Proper mowing practices are most important for gray leaf spot management in St. Augustinegrass. This grass must be mowed frequently during the summer months to remove excess leaf tissue, keep the canopy open and dry, and remove developing gray leaf spot lesions. Collecting clippings reduces spread of the disease when gray leaf spot symptoms are evident. Apply nitrogen and other nutrients as recommended to maintain vigorous foliar growth during the summer months. Excessive shade, in addition to promoting leaf wetness, slows St. Augustinegrass growth and enhances gray leaf spot problems. For more information about leaf spot, including control recommendations, click here.

Pythium Root Rot: History Repeating?

The summer of 2010 shouldn't be too distant of a memory for most and if you remember correctly, most of NC ended May on a very wet note. This was followed by one of the hottest summers on record. This series of events led to widespread cases of Pythium root rot on creeping bentgrass putting greens, especially for those who did little to nothing to protect their roots from Pythium during May.

With all that being said, you should be applying products for Pythium root rot prevention RIGHT NOW.  Doing so now will save you money and headaches come summer.

For more information about Pythium root rot, including control recommendations, click here.

Remember that Pythium root rot is a soil disease, so you MUST water your applications in to be effective.

May 2012 Rainfall Total

May 2011 Rainfall Total

May 2010 Rainfall Total

Pythium blight of bermudagrass putting greens

Following recent periods of wet, cloudy weather we've had several reports of a disease appearing on bermudagrass putting greens. The symptoms are a rapid foliar blight that initially has a purple coloration but then fades to tan. Spread on mowers or in drainage patterns usually occurs as well. Many superintendents assume that this is leaf spot, which of course is a common bermudagrass disease during wet weather in the fall. I have to admit that the first time I saw this I also thought it was leaf spot. But I was wrong - it is Pythium blight.



Pythium blight in October? Yes, you read it correctly, it is Pythium blight in October.

There are a lot of Pythium species that can infect grasses. Most people are familiar with P. aphanidermatum that causes Pythium blight on the cool season grasses during hot summer weather. However, there are other Pythium species that grow during cool or cold weather. We don't know what species is causing this outbreak yet, but obviously it grows well during cool weather and has a competitive advantage over the bermudagrass under these conditions.

Fungicide treatments may not always be necessary to control Pythium blight on bermudagrass, as dry and sunny weather usually put a stop to it very quickly. However, if the forecast is calling for extended periods of wet and cloudy weather, an application might be a good idea. Any strong Pythium fungicide should do a good job.

It's Officially Fall! Treat Now for Spring Dead Spot!

So, your first question may be "Why on Earth are you telling me to apply fungicides for a spring disease in the fall and for something that will not show up for another 6-7 months?!"  The answer is simple.  The causal fungus, Ophiosphaerella spp., is active RIGHT NOW and you can bet it's infecting your bermuda and zoysia grass plants as I type this blog.  We know through years of research that fungicides are most effective when the soil temperatures are between  60 - 80°F in the fall of the year.

Average Daily Soil Temperature on 9/22/2011 via NC State Climate Office

As you can see by the map above, the time is right for preventative applications. However, choosing the right fungicide and applying at the right time will not result in acceptable levels of control if you do not apply them correctly.  Spring dead spot infects below ground plant parts.  With that being said, you must either water-in your fungicide applications IMMEDIATELY  with 1/4" of irrigation or apply with a carrier volume of 5 gal/water/1,000 sq. ft.  You need to be running your irrigation the moment the applicator is out of the way.  Do not wait until the following evening or night with your routine irrigation schedule or else you may be severely disappointed come next spring when these grasses green back up.

Just recently we have made some fantastic discoveries with fertilizers in regards to controlling this disease without having to use fungicides at all!  To learn more about this, please click here.

Also, if you haven't heard, Rubigan will be coming off the market in December of 2012.  Rubigan is one of the better fungicides available for spring dead spot control.  To learn more about this, click here.

To learn much more about spring dead spot, including control recommendations and images, please click here.

Do growth regulators and biostimulants cause yellow etiolation of creeping bentgrass?

We've been seeing yellowing and etiolation of creeping bentgrass greens in North Carolina off and on since 2005. Some people are calling this 'bacterial wilt', but there are two problems with this name. First, no one has proven that this condition is caused by a bacteria. Second, and perhaps most obviously, wilt isn't one of the symptoms!

So, can we all agree to call it yellow etiolation instead of just slapping another erroneous name on it? I know that 'etiolation' is difficult to pronounce, but you can hear its correct pronunciation and practice along at thefreedictionary.com/etiolation.

Early on, I had a theory that biostimulants and/or growth regulators were involved in either causing this yellow etiolation or increasing its appearance. I wanted to share a couple of pictures recently sent to me by golf course superintendents that provide even more evidence of their role in this condition.


This first picture was taken at one of our research sites. Our plots were positioned in a ring around the cleanup pass of this green, and we asked them to avoid spraying our plots when they made certain applications to the greens. The area to the right that is declining severely received their sprays containing a biostimulant product and the growth regulator trinexapac-ethyl. As you can see very clearly, the areas NOT receiving these sprays are much more healthy than the areas that were sprayed.



This second picture was sent to me by a golf course superintendent in Pennsylvania. You are looking at a collar-height walkway between a green and a tee. The area to the left of the red dotted line received double applications of Primo, one along with the greens applications and another along with the tee applications. You can clearly see that the yellowing, etiolation, and thinning of the bentgrass is much more pronounced in the area receiving higher rates of Primo.

So what is going on here? To me, this is looking more and more like a physiological condition rather than a disease problem. We are still unable to consistently isolate any single pathogen, bacteria or otherwise, from turf exhibiting these symptoms. We are planning research to look at the influence of growth regulators and biostimulants on this problem. Until then, I suggest that superintendents who are battling this problem eliminate biostumulants from their programs and also avoid use of trinexapac-ethyl during periods of summer stress.

Now entering the 'No DMI Zone'

Every year, we see a lot of golf course superintendents get into trouble by applying DMI fungicides to bentgrass or Poa annua putting greens during periods of hot weather. These products can cause severe damage to stressed cool-season grasses, and our general rule of thumb is that they should not be applied to putting green turf when temperatures above 90 are expected in the next two weeks. After a nice break in the weather late last week, temperatures are ramping up into the high 90's and I don't think we can count on seeing temperatures below 90 for quite some time.

There are few good reasons to apply a DMI fungicide during July and August anyway. Most of our summer diseases can be controlled very well with other chemistries that do not have these negative side-effects.

So, if you are considering an application of a DMI fungicide, ask yourself two questions: "Are my greens stressed? Are temperatures above 90 in the forecast?" If the answer to either of these questions is "Yes", then leave the DMIs on the shelf!

One exception is anthracnose; if you have Poa annua greens or older bentgrass varieties that are prone to anthracnose, a DMI application could be justified. The new-generation DMIs like metconazole, tebuconazole, and triticonazole have less injury potential on cool-season grasses and provide very good anthracnose control. Keep the rates low and tank-mix with chlorothalonil to minimize the chances for injury, thinning of the turf, and algae invasion.

Update on Bacteria in Creeping Bentgrass Greens

In the last month, we've observed significant amounts of bacteria in 32 creeping bentgrass samples submitted to the Turf Diagnostics Lab. We isolated the bacteria in these samples and are identifying them by DNA sequencing and other techniques.

The good news first: the majority of samples contained bacteria that are known to be non-pathogenic to turf. We suspect that these bacterial infections occurred during aerification and topdressings performed after Memorial Day when it was very hot and humid. These non-pathogenic bacteria are not killing the plant directly but may be speeding up the dieback of leaves or tillers that were injured by these stressful practices.

We did isolate the plant pathogenic bacteria Acidovorax from 7 locations, most of which are in the Piedmont of North Carolina. The samples that contain Acidovorax are showing the symptoms of chlorosis, etiolation, and gradual thinning that I wrote about in previous posts. The caveat is that we're not isolating Acidovorax from all of the locations where these symptoms are present. As a result, we cannot be sure that this bacteria is the true cause of the symptoms.

Results from trial on L-93 in Raleigh. Rates are per 1000 sq ft.

We have ongoing trials at 2 locations where Acidovorax is present, and our preliminary data is presented here. First, a word on our rating scale. These ratings are on a 0 to 9 scale, where 0 equals no disease, 1 to 3 represents varying degrees of chlorosis, 4 to 6 represents chlorosis with varying degrees of thinning, and 7 to 9 represent severe thinning of the turf.

Results from trial on G-2 in Charlotte. Rates are per 1000 sq ft.

While we haven't found a silver bullet yet, we have noticed that Signature treatments seem to be helping. In the Raleigh trial, 8 oz of Signature applied 3 times has prevented the turf from thinning, although some chlorosis and etiolation is still evident. In the Charlotte location, plots treated with 8 oz of Signature 3 times have improved slightly, while all other plots have continued to thin.

Before you complain about the price of an 8 oz Signature spray: we don't set the prices, we're just trying to find something that works. We are continuing to evaluate other products and practices that may help to control this problem and will post regular updates on this blog as we learn more.

One important take-home message: just because a diagnostic lab sees bacteria in your bentgrass doesn't mean you have a bacterial disease. Most of the samples we've received have only contained non-pathogenic bacteria. The bacteria has to be isolated and identified in order to determine if it is a plant pathogen.

Program '11 Update: Dry and Cool

It's been dry in Raleigh during most of June, and cool (compared to last year, at least) for the last couple weeks. Disease pressure on our 'A-1' bentgrass green has been relatively light as a result. Nevertheless, we still made several changes to Program '11:

Dollar spot pressure was still pretty high in early June, so instead of applying Disarm C on June 6 we applied Honor for its better activity against dollar spot. We skipped the application of Subdue Maxx that was planned for June 13 because of the dry conditions. Then on June 20 we applied the Disarm C that was originally planned for June 6.


All of the programs are providing good brown patch control. Dollar spot is still reducing turf quality in the Syngenta Program, but all other programs are providing very good turf quality this week.


For more information about our Program '11 Project, or to follow along on Facebook or Twitter, please visit our website turfpathology.org.

Avid Receives 24(c) Label for Nematode Control in NC

Golf course superintendents in North Carolina have a new option for nematode control on putting greens.

Avid (abamectin) has been granted a 24(c) Special Local Need label for control of sting and ring nematodes on golf course putting greens. The supplemental label can be downloaded here. It is important to emphasize that this 24(c) label applies only to the Avid brand, is only valid in North Carolina, and only allows for application to golf course putting greens.

The application rate is 57 ounces per acre, with a recommended 3 to 4 applications on a 14 to 21 day interval. Tank-mixing with a non-ionic surfactant is recommended to improve penetration into the root zone, and applications should be watered-in immediately with 0.1" of irrigation.

Suspected Bacterial Disease of Creeping Bentgrass

Over the last two weeks, the Turf Diagnostics Lab at NC State received several samples of a suspected bacterial disease on bentgrass putting greens. All of the affected golf courses have been in the Piedmont region, from Raleigh to Greensboro to Charlotte.



Most locations are reporting yellowing and etiolation of the bentgrass followed by a slow thinning. The symptoms are relatively mild in these locations. Two courses experienced a more rapid and widespread decline. In all cases, the symptoms are limited to areas that were severely damaged last year by heat stress or other diseases.

We are working to isolate and identify the bacteria associated with these samples. Since there are bacteria in almost every turf sample we receive, we need to determine if the bacteria are pathogenic before we can be sure that they are the cause of the problem.

In the meantime, golf course superintendents who are seeing these symptoms are advised to avoid abrasive practices like aerification, verticutting, and topdressing. If the symptoms are localized to cleanup passes or certain greens, then dedicate a mower to those areas or wash the mower thoroughly and spray it with a 10% bleach solution before moving to other greens. Mowing affected areas last after the dew has dried or spraying with a hydrogen peroxide solution before mowing may also help to minimize the spread of bacteria.

In addition, anything that can be done to minimize stress on the turf is advised; for example raising mowing heights, switching to solid rollers, or skipping mowings on affected areas.

We are investing all of our effort and resources into determining the cause of this problem and developing a practical solution. We have initiated trials at 4 golf courses to evaluate practices that may help to control it. Be sure to follow our blog or sign up for email alerts to receive regular updates:

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Pythium Root Dysfunction Alert

Multiple cases of Pythium root dysfunction, caused by Pythium volutum, have been confirmed in our lab from golf courses with creeping bentgrass putting greens throughout the Piedmont and Coastal Plains of North Carolina. The warmer than usual weather conditions have warmed the soil temperatures well into the optimum range for PRD development.

If you've had problems with PRD in the past, then you should have already started your preventative program. Don't worry if you haven't, there's still time to correct this issue before summer arrives. Remember, this is a ROOT DISEASE, therefore you must WATER-IN your fungicide applications to be successful!

For more information about PRD, including specific control recommendations, click here.

The best time for fairy ring prevention is near

Average daily soil temperatures in NC on March 6, 2011

The time for preventative fungicide applications for fairy ring control will be approaching over the next couple of weeks. Based on our field research, two applications of a DMI fungicide beginning when soil temperatures reach a 5 day average of 55F provides excellent control.

If you would like to monitor soil temperatures on your own, you can do so using the NC State Climate Office Advanced Map. For sandy soils or sand-based putting greens, the average daily soil temperature will be very close to the average daily air temperature, so you don't necessarily need a website or fancy weather station. Just take the average of today's high and low temperature, and when that number is at or above 55F for 5 straight days, it's time to pull the trigger!

For more information about fairy ring, including control recommendations, click here.

How to submit a sample to the Turf Diagnostics Lab

This video will show you how to collect and submit a sample to the NC State Turf Diagnostics Lab for disease diagnosis.

Watch out for yellow patch on putting greens and landscapes

Yellow patch on an annual bluegrass putting green

Given the cool, wet weather we've had over the last few weeks, golf course superintendents should be on the lookout for yellow patch in their creeping bentgrass putting greens. This disease is also known as 'cool-season brown patch', but the symptoms are very different. Yellow patch appears in irregular rings and arcs that are yellow, or sometimes white. Some people say it looks just like sweat rings on an old baseball cap.

Yellow patch can also occur in landscapes established with Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue. In these cases, the rings are not so distinct but instead has a very irregular appearance. Distinct lesions that are white or light tan with a light brown border can be seen on the affected leaves.

Yellow patch in a Kentucky bluegrass landscape

Yellow patch can be controlled easily with fungicides, but recovery can be slow if the turf is not growing due to cool temperatures. Early detection and treatment is very important for this reason.

Refer to the Disease Management Utility on TurfFiles for a list of recommended fungicides for yellow patch control.